Now, here I stress the word of saftey. These explosive compounds can
remove a limb or kill you. So I would suggest, before you even think about
trying any of these, that you have some background knowledge on explosive or
chemistry. These explosives range from sound sensitive to water sensitive or
electrically ignited.
It takes time and patience to make high explosive compounds. Some are
easier than the others and some of the chemicals seem almost impossible to
find. In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed here you will
have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the chemical
houses have been told to notifiy the police if a certian combination of
chemicals are ordered then send the name and all the information about that
person ordering to the police. And it is possible that you might get a little
visit from the city law. Also, making, using, selling, or possession of many
of the explosives are illegal and a hard penalty can rise. Even for first
offenders. Take this warning. Its true!
ASTROLITE
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket
propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's
most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful
than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT(not that it
isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce
very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) ,compared with 7,700MPS
for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition,a very unusual
characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed
easily into the ground while remaining detonable...In field tests, Astrolite G
has remained detonable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked
due to rainy weather know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)
Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight
'anhydrous' hydrazine,produces Astrolite G...Feel free to use different ratios
Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting
hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic
hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization
catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic
developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be
careful with.
Astrolite A/A-1-5
------------------
Ok,here's the good part...
Mix 20%(weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with
hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has
a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens
though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
Sodium Chlorate Explosives
------------------------
Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium
chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in
blowtorches and you can get about 3lb.s for about $6.00.
Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder
-------------------------
65% sodium chlorate
22% charcoal
13% sulphur
and sprinkle some graphite on top.
Rocket Fuel
-----------
6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)
----------------------------------
50% sodium chlorate
35% rubber cement
10% epoxy resin hardener
5% sulphur
You may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.
Incendiary Mixture
------------------
55% aluminum powder (atomized)
45% sodium chlorate
5% sulphur
Impact Mixture
--------------
50% red phosphorus
50% sodium chlorate
Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when
mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.
Filler explosive
----------------
85% sodium chlorate
10% vaseline
5% aluminum powder
Nitromethane explosives
---------------------
Nitromethane (CH3NO2)
specific gravity:1.139
flash point:95f
auto-ignite:785f
Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats,
etc.
To be detonated with a #8 cap,add:
1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
Nitromethane 'solid' explosives
-------------------------------
2 parts nitromethane
5 parts ammonium nitrate ( solid powder)
Soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container.
This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60%
nitroglycerin, and has 30% more brisance.
PICRIC ACID
Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric
acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred and kept at a stedy temperature of 95
degrees celcius for four to six hours, depending on the quanities of phenol
used. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water,
and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric
acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition
of the acid must be performed slowly, but more importatly the temperature of
the solution must not go above 110 degrees celcius. Ten or so minutes after
the addition of nitric acid, the picric acid will be fully formed, and you can
drain off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner
as above until little or no acid is present. When washing, use only cold water.
After this, the pircic acid should be sllowed to partially dry. Picric acid is
a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages. It is more
expensive to make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled water
form, as pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should
never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on contact there
is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon formation.
TETRYL
A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in a excess amount of
concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of
nitric acid. The new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well stirred.
After about five minutes, the tetrylis filtered and then washed in cold water It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts to neutralize any remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necessary according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acids, filter it from the water and allowed to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT.
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH
This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and
explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main explosive
filler in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German, and
some other forces involved in that conflict.
These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures in
the following paragraph can be dangerous if you don't take special care.
One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfur,
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively
while in storage. One should never store home made explosives, make enough
for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT BLOWS!
The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an
expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not
economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause
the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and yields
a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product.
These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for
instigating detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite
solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove, etc., a battery hydrometer,
a large pyrex or enameled steel container, a triple beam balance (to weigh
chemicals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute).
Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride
and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and
boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery
hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge.)
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the
refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees celcius.
Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution
again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water
in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled water. Heat
that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save
the crystals the form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium
chlorate.
Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to drive
off all moisture.
Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white
gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium
chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl.
Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow
all the gasoline to evaporate.
Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till water
proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.
RDX
THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS.
Since the first part of WWII the armed forces of the United States has been
searching for the perfect plastique explosives to be used in demolition work.
This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition plastique explosives.
Of this group C-4 being the lastest formulation that has been readily adopted
by the armed forces. This formulation was preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this
series of articles, I will cover all these explosives in their chronological
progression as they were developed and standardized by the armed forces. All
these explosives are cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisizing agents
used to achieve the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20%
of the total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite
is manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine,
(methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The
hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid.
It will most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or
methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars for
camp stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel
bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made with
common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde solution.
To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex
dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia water.
Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that remains in the pan
place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat that the oven has. This should be
done only for a moment or so to drive off any remaining water. These crystals
are scraped up and placed in a airtight jar to store them until they are used.
To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass
stopper. In the retort place 32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this
add 68 grams of potassium nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating
this retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS
HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WITH
GOOD VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of
the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck of the
retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by ice water.
This should be heated till no more collects in the neck of the retort and the
nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This acid should be
stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size batch which is
determined by the person producing the explosive. Of course the batch can be
larger or smaller but the same rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X.
place 550 grams of the nitric acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml.
beaker in a salted bath. 50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small
portions making sure that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30
DEGREES CELCIUS. This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer
directly in the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should
be maintained. If the temperature approches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE
ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable level.
After the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the temperature
to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes coninuing
the vigerous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid-hexamine
mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals should form and
are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X.
and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To remove this trace of
acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water and shaking and
refiltering. These crystals are then placed in a little boiling water and
filtered. Place them in some warm water and check the acidity for the resultant
suspension with litmus paper. You want it to read between 6 and 7 on the Ph
scale. If there is still acid in these crystals reboil them in fresh water
until the acid is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the
closer to 7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet
until ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE
TREATED WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful than
T.N.T. To use, these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing processes in
the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan and spread
them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the are completely dry.
This explosive will detonate in this dry form when pressed into a mold to a
density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550 M/second!
COMPOSITION 'C'
All of the type 'C' plastic explosives (that includes C-2, C-3, and C-4) are
exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care.
This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted early
in WWII. This explosive is the choice explosive of the type 'C' compounds
because of its relative ease of maufacture and the easy aquisition of the
plastizer compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks.
This explosive was standardized and adopted in the following composition:
R.D.X.......................... 88.3%
Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1%
Lecithin....................... .6%
(All percentages are by weight)
In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large
crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive.
This explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic, (except
when ingested).
It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the explosive
undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go
relatively unimpaired. Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes brittle and its cap
sensitivity is lessened considerably.
Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to dissolve
the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R.D.X. and
allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of all gasoline.
The second method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound into
the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained.
This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly made the
plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated
temparatures for long periods of time.
It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will be a good choice, especially
if used below 0 degrees celcius.
This detonates at a velocity of 7900 M/second.
COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3
These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they don't
produce as much power as 'C' and 'C-4' compounds.
It is not recommended you make these two types of plastique, this part was
written for imformatative purposes only.
Composition 'C-2' is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE. It is
also unstable in storage and is poor choice for home explosive manufacture. It
also has a lower detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or 'C-3'.
It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same
procedure used in incorperation of 'C-3'. Its composition is as follows:
R.D.X................. 80%
(Equal parts of them following:)
Mononitrotolulene
Dinitrotolulene
T.N.T. guncotton
Dimethylformide......... 20%
(See Below for rest of recipe)
'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'. It was
standardized and adopted by the military as following composition:
R.D.X................ 77%
Mononitrotolulene.... 16%
Dinitrotolulene...... 5%
Tetryl............... 1%
T.N.T. guncotton..... 1%
'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam jacketed
melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment. The kettle is
heated to 90-100 degrees celcius and the stirrer is activated. Water wet R.D.X.
is added to the plastisizing agent and the stirring is continued until a
uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat
source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room temperature.
This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65 degrees
celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair it's
explosive properties.
'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of 'C-3'
is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although the
explosives detonation properties are not affected.
Water does not affect explosives preformance. Thus it is very good for
under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an application.
When stored at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes place. It
will become hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this
temperature.
While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with care as
it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin.
It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a
booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and was
avaliable in standard demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is
approximately 7700 M/second.
GELATIN DYNAMITE
Below are five different ways to make a very common explosive. Dynamite.
#1 nitro-------------------------12%
guncotten---------------------.5%
amonium nitrate---------------87.5%
#2 nitro-------------------------88%
potassium nitrate--------------5%
tetryl-------------------------7%
#3 nitro-------------------------24%
guncotten----------------------1%
amonium nitrate---------------75%
#4 nitro-------------------------75%
guncotten----------------------5%
potassium nitrate-------------15%
wood meal----------------------5%
#5 nitro-------------------------80%
ethalyne glycol dinitrate-----20%
After making this stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and expoxy each end. But
be careful for it might be a little unstable because of the nitroglycerine
(nitro). Before it is totally dry stick a good fuse in one of the ends. Light,
Throw, and run as if your life depended on it! Which in a way it does.
PEROXYACETONE
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been reported to be shock
sensitive.
--Materials--
4ml Acetone
4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid
150mm test tube
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops
concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to
appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40
Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and
filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite,
light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a
meter away).
CELLULOSE NIRTATE (GUNCOTTON)
Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that it does
not give off smoke when it burns.
Materials-
70ml concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml concentrated nitric acid
5g absorbent cotton
250ml sodium bicarbonate
250ml beaker
ice bath
tongs
paper towels
Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric a
cid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid
solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml
water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml sodium bicarbonate.
If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry
and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.
NITROGEN TRI-IODIDE
This is very shock sensitive when it comes to being agitated, moved, dropped,
touched, breathed on....etc. For one thing I hope you don't do any of those.
This has a high explosive value to it. It can move a lot of mass with just a
little compound. I have heard so many different ways to make this, and this
is the best one, I think.
Take a medium glass and fill it up with ammonium hydroxide (household
ammonia). Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of the glass full.
Wait about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid remaining. Now, what
you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide, which is very sensitive to
touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is wet. Thats why you do not let it
dry until you want to use it. To detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff
on an object and wait till something agitates it. Remember too much can harm
a lot of things. It does pack a wallop!
NITROGLYCERIN
Nitroglycerin is a very high explosive. It is used all around the world to
do many different types of jobs. To make nitro here is what you have to do:
By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid. The
mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid
is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring. Never mix them the
other way round for they will splatter. Each part of glycerin will yield 2.3
parts of nitroglycerin. The temperature when adding the glycerin to the acids
should never go above 25 degrees centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear,
the whole mess should be dumped into cold waterfast. Do not take this as an
encouragement to make nitroglycerin. It is a dangerous procedure to mix all
these types of acids together and can easily be lost control of.
MAKING SULFURIC ACID
No, your not really MAKING sulfuric acid, you are just making it more
concentrated. All you need to do is to take a old car battery and dump all of
the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a stove. Do not use metal for
unwanted occurances could come about. Just take the old acid and boil it until
you see white fumes come out. When you do immediately turn off the heat and let
it cool. One thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an electric hot plate and make
it outside because the fumes are very poisonous
T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene)
Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being composed of: 2
parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30 degrees.
Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitrotoluene and mix
with 100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid being composed of: 1
part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid. Keep the temperature
at 60 - 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.. Raise temperature to 90 - 100
degrees and stir for 30 minutes. Te dinitrotoulene is seperated and mixed with
100 parts of this with 225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100% sulfuric acid with
20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95
degrees for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the
trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater. Purify the powder by soaking
it in benzene.
MERCURY FUMLINATE
Mix 2 parts of Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part mercury.
This is very shock sensitive explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid is an unstable
acid. It will react to agitation.
CHAPTER THREE [INCENDARIES]
What is an incendairy? Those are compounds that do not go "boom", but can
burn fast and generate a lot of heat. For example, thermite, its an incendairy,
because it can produce temperatures will up in the hundreds and can even melt
metal.
NAPALM
This is just gasoline in a thickend form. What it does is burn for long
periods of time. If it is made right I hear that water can't even put it out.
What you do is take some polystyrine (styrofoam) and place it in some unleaded
gasoline (unleaded works better). Keep feeding styrofoam to the gas until you
can not feed any more at all. At points it will look like thats all it can
take, just wait for a minute and let the other gas rise to the top. It will
take a lot of stryrofoam until you get what you want. When it is done, it will
burn for a long time. I would suggest that you do not place any on you because
once it is lit it will travel quite quickly since it melts the thickend gasoline
and it rolls down. This is also fun to play with. The only problem with it, is
it gives off too much smoke.
THERMITE
This is the arsonists dream! Thermite is a very hot mixture. Although it
is slightly hard to get ignited, so it is safe to transport it. Here is what
you do: Thermite is made from powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust). Mix two
parts by volume powdered alumnium with three parts iron oxide. This stuff is
hard to light, but once you get it going don't plan on putting it out, because
it can produce enough heat to melt through a steel plate. The finer the
ingredients are the easier it will be to ignite.
CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES
A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns
fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of
concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid
is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which
explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.
CHAPTER FOUR [SMOKE BOMBS]
So, you want a smoke screen? Well this chapter will explain how many
different types of smoke can be made. Even colored smoke.
SMOKE PRODUCER
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this
reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for
larger amounts of smoke.
6g zinc powder
1g sulfur powder
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be
created.
SMOKE BOMB
This is the father of all smoke bombs. Mix:
2 part Potassium Nitrate
1 Part Granulated sugar.
Put this under a very low heat source and melt the sugar and potassium
nitrate. After it is melted let it set and get hard. When it gets hard,
just take outside and hold a lit match on an area of the smoke bomb and wait
till it lights. You will know when it is about to ignite because the stuff
turns black and will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of the
compound. You also can light it without melting it but it burns too fast and
will make a hudge flame while the other one does not.
HTH CHLORINE SMOKE BOMB
Take HTH pool chlorine and some non-silicon brake fluid and mix the two
together in a ratio of 4 parts chlorine to 1 part brake fluid. When you mix the
two together they will begin to sizzle and then it will begin to smoke. It will
take about 30 seconds to start smoking fully. When it does begin to smoke it
will produce a stinking cloud of thick white smoke. If you do not be careful
it could burst into flames and burn what it is in. I suggest to place the
mixture in a glass container for it gets real hot. And anybody in their right
mind will not go pick it up and try to throw it when it has done smoking. The
smoke is known to last for over 2 minutes and is also toxic because it produces
chlorine gas, which is deadly!
SMOKE MIXTURES
All mixture parts are in percentages
[Black]
Hexachloroethane...60
Anthracene.........20
Magnesium (powder).20
[Brown]
Pitch..............29.2
Potasium Nitrate...47.4
Borax..............10.6
Calcium Carbonate...4.9
Sand................4.0
Sulfur..............3.9
[Grey]
Hexachloroethane....50
Zinc Powder.........25
Zinc Oxide..........10
Potassium Nitrate...10
Colophony Resin.....5
Hexachloroethane....45.5
Zinc Oxide..........45.5
Calcium Silicide.....9.0
[White]
Potassium Chlorate..20
Ammonium Chloride...50
Naphthalene.........20
Charcoal............10
Potassium nitrate....48.5
Sulfur...............48.5
Realgar...............3.0
Potassium Nitrate..50
Sugar..............50
[Yellow]
Potassium Nitrate..25
Sulfur.............16
Realgar............59
[White]
Potassium nitrate.......6
Antimony sulfide........1
Powdered sulfur.........1
[Yellow]
Potassium nitrate.......4
Powdered sulfur.........1
Charcoal................2
Sodium chloride.........3
[Yellow]
Powdered sulfur.........4
Charcoal................1
Potassium nitrate......24
Sodium carbonate........6
[Red]
Strontium nitrate.......4
Powdered orange shellac.1
[Red]
Strontium nitrate......11
Powdered sulfur.........4
Charcoal................1
Calcium carbonate......11
Potassium nitrate.......1
[Purple]
Copper sulfate..........1
Strontium nitrate.......1
Powdered sulfur.........1
Charcoal................1
Potassium nitrate.......3
[Green]
Barium nitrate..........7
Powdered sulfur.........4
Charcoal................1
Potassium nitrate.......1
[Green]
Barium chlorate.........9
Powdered orange shellac.1
[Blue]
Anitmony sulfide........2
Powdered sulfur.........4
Potassium nitrate......12
[Blue]
Potassium nitrate......12
Powdered sulfur.........3
charcoal................1
Copper sulfate..........2
Powdered rosin..........1
CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into
the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably
start burning...
CHAPTER FIVE [BOMBS]
This is the point I really stress the word saftey! At this point it should be
well excercised and you had better know what you are doing before you even
attempt to construct some of these devices. Remember that the law prohibits
the manufacture and use of such devices, and you could be breaking the law in
some places. If you do make on of the devices that is listed in here then I
would suggest you make a prototype and set that one off in the country and if
it worked correctly then make your final one and use it the way you had in mind.
GENERIC BOMB
Aquire a glass container. Put in a few drops of gasoline. Cap the top and
turn the container around to coat the inner surface. Add a few drops of
potassium permanganate (found in a snake-bite kit) . To detonate just throw
against a hard object. I hear this is the same as a half stick of dynamite!
FIREBOMBS
Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag in
the mouth. The original firebomb was one part gasoline and one part motor oil.
The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to burn. Some use one
part roofing tar or one part melting wax to 2 parts gasoline.
PIPEBOMB
A pipe bomb is very easy to make. But is also very dangerous!
To construct a pipe bomb you will need a piece of pipe about one foot long.
Some fine gun powder, a solar ignitor, and a battery. Cap one end of the pipe
very good with a cap. Pour some gun powder in the other end about little over
the middle. Cap the pipe on the other end and make a small hole in the middle
of the pipe. Now wrap the whole pipe in electric tape and make the hole again.
Place in the head of the solar ignitor in the hole. Tape the ignitor down so it
will not fall out.
To ignite the bomb I suggest you take a VERY long wire and connect it to the
electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very far away. Then connect the
battery at the other end of the wire. DO NOT touch the battery to the
electrodes of the bomb for even a second, because it WILL explode!!! Remember
take a long two conductor wire and connect it to the electrodes and run it far
away and then connect the battery to it. If you made it correctly it will
explode upon contact with the battery! Remember, this can kill you. This
also can do a lot of property damage.
CONTACT GERNADE
Materials: 2-3 in. section of pipe
PVC (for test and fun)
Steel (for shrapnel)
12 guage shotgun shell
(fitted to pipe)
marble
ping pong ball
cap for pipe
2-3 ft. ribbon
(flights)
explosive charge
(of personal preferance)
a 1/2 or 1/4 cup petrol makes an excellent charge when
vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest
or any STABLE flammable explosive one may have.
This design is a modified pipebomb which will be set off upon hard contact.
This makes things much easier than tossing molotove cocktails or lighting fuses
as all you do is throw it and it should detonate on contact.
1. cut the plastic of the shotgun shell off of the primer and set aside.
2. carefully fit the primer into one end of the pipe and epoxy securely.
3. glue the marble to the 'dimple' of the primer.
4. cut the ping pong ball in half and then glue half onto the marble to make
a simple form of casing.
5. put explosive charge into the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only 1/4
of the volume of pipe. reason: 1gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks dynamite!!!)
6. cap the pipe and epoxy into place.
7. tie ribbon around tail section of pipe.
Relax. Now that its finished heres how it works. When thrown the grenade
will come down upon the point because of the tail flights. When it hits, the
primer will be crushed by the marble, setting it off. The primer then ignites
the explosive charge. I heartily recommend that PVC be used for testing as the
steel pipe is rather dangerous. This design is not a toy and should not be
built to be played with. If you want a toy just empty a shotgun shell and tape
a marble to the primer and throw. It makes a quasi-safe firework.
CARBIDE BOMB
Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide
lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces and
put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will
react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas
used in curring torches. Eventually the glass will explode from internal
pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball.
HINDENBERG BOMB
Get, a balloon, bottle, liquid plumr, foil, and a length of fuse. Fill the
bottle 3/4 full with the liquid plumr and add a little piece of alumninum foil.
Put the balloon over the next of the bottle until the balloon is full of the
resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Tape
the fuse to the outside of the inflated balloon and light. Let the balloon rise
into the air. When the fuse gets to the balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen
